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POP-UP TRAVEL: 24 Hours In & Outside of Reykjavik, Iceland.

Ásólfsskálakirkja // Off of Route 1, in Ásólfsskáli.

While searching for the words for my Field Guide to New Zealand: Part Deux, life has kept turning and I've been on another adventure. Like the ill-fated Christopher McCandless said, "happiness is only real when shared." Sitting next to me and reading this, or separated by a million miles, I'd like to share some recent happiness with you, dear readers.

With the rise of WOW! Air, providing affordable and accessible airfare for those of us who aren't like Scrooge McDuck, your likelihood of having a short (and sweet) layover through the land of fire and ice has increased tenfold. So why not spend the day getting a glimpse at the wonders of Iceland? No, I'm not referring to the dashing and towering Icelandic men's man buns (or buns for that matter). While they ARE wonderful, there is a greater beauty to behold. If I had only twenty-four hours in jaw-dropping Iceland... here is what I would do (and just did) in eight easy steps:

STEP 1: Brush teeth.

I mean, what are bathrooms at airports for? As a working flight attendant, I can tell you for a fact that people waiting for a flight aren't using them. No, they prefer to queue up for the port-a-potties onboard. 

STEP 2: Rent a car.

Let me remind you that I know that you know that there are other, more frugal, ways (hitchhiking... sorry Mom!) of getting around Iceland, however, time being a constraint, I recommend renting a car from the airport. You are the master of your time, and can, therefore, linger a little longer in some places, or boldly go where I have not suggested going.

A few things to keep in mind if you're following the trail I blazed here: the pièce de résistance is over 100km away from Keflavik airport, so make sure to get unlimited mileage. Also, discern between automatic/manual transmission if you aren't a cowboy... they drive on the right side of the road, left side of the car. Due to a fissure (a big crack) in the Mid-Atlantic ridge caused by equal parts uniting and separating of the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates (sounds like a relationship ripe with drama), Iceland is deemed the land of fire and ice for a very good reason: it is not only one of Earth's youngest bodies of land, but also the home to some of the world's most active volcanoes. Think of it as your kid brother who just hit puberty: moody, likely to lash out at any moment, & experiencing sporadic growth spurts. In actuality, the island is growing by 5 centimeters every year as the tectonic plates move away from each other. Why is this important, you may ask? In regards to driving, you can understand how conditions could be less than ideal on occasion. I recommend always checking for up to date information on driving conditions and weather, via this website. The last notable volcanic eruption was from Grímsvötn in 2011, however, when the rental car employees are pushing SAND AND ASH or GRAVEL protection, listen... there might be a reason.

Damage to your bank account: Around 127 USD with Dollar/Thrifty via Priceline for 24 hours. Gas was around 50 USD for the entirety of this outing. Keep in mind, Iceland is expensive, and when converting, 1 USD equates to about 100 ISK. Remember that bite-sized computer you have in your pocket? Yes, your phone. Invest in a reliable currency converter to make your life easier! I suggest xe Currency: it updates via live market rates, so you can expect accuracy, where accuracy is to be had.

Gosh, get out of the airport already and...

STEP 3: Grab some grub at Kex Hostel in Reykjavik.

Tucked into the northwest of the capital city, and only a forty-five-minute drive from Keflavik International airport... Kex Hostel is a picture perfect spot to nab some delicious Icelandic fare and—drumroll please— score the best soda bread in Reykjavik. When I found out (two minutes ago) that 'kex' is the Icelandic word for biscuit, everything fell into place and I think I discovered the meaning of life. Order at the bar and grab a seat with an ocean view, then literally run to the table where their fresh out of the oven bread is waiting for you to slather all the butter on it: it's self-serve so do not feel shame if you slice half the loaf off. Don't forget to take a stroll around the ground floor of the hostel and heated patio! Kex is known for being one of the most popular hostels in Reykjavik, and for good reason: it's quirky decor, amenities and (bread) overall aesthetic is a (bread) dream come true.

Damage to your savings: Rooms via Hostelworld range from 39 USD (16 bed mixed dorm) to 188 USD (double bed private), so pick your poison if you intend to hang your hat for the night! You won't regret it, but you also might gain 10 pounds from the bread. Consider yourself warned.

STEP 4: Hike to the top of Seljalandsfoss waterfall.

You're finally on the road! Congratulations. Crank up the tunes, roll down your windows (if it isn't freezing/snowing/raining ash/hailing) and head east on Route 1 towards Vík, more specifically to Seljalandsfoss waterfall. Coming from Reykjavik, you'll see the falls on your left after about an hour and a half drive. Don't worry, there is plenty to been seen along the way. 

Something extraordinary about Seljalandsfoss is that in addition to making the short (but steep and slippery) climb to the top, you can also walk behind the waterfall. To get to the top, facing the falls, look for the trickle of people off to the left, walk in the direction of the campground, and follow the very much man-made path UP. Once on the ridge, you'll see the Seljalands River that originates in the effervescent, unpronouncable, glacier-topped volcano: Eyafjallajökull. I'm guessing this is where they hide the Dragonglass (look at me making a non-Lord of the Rings reference). Being the land of fire and ice, it's not surprising, but nothing less than stunning to see how our natural wonders are juxtaposed here. Watch your step on the way down, because you might end up sliding, rather than walking. Also, please don't be that person who falls off of a cliff taking a selfie: secure your own mask before helping others, as they say!

Damage to your dinero: Pay for parking, but mother nature in her splendor is FREE.

on top of Seljalandsfoss // photo by @laurenbritt__

Need I say more?

STEP 5: Try to pronounce Ásólfsskálakirkja.

There's nothing like complementary colors.

On Route 1, continuing to head EAST, take the Ásólfsskáli loop and drive past this absolutely charming church that reinforces all our feelings about the red/green color combination. 

Have you begun to notice that, for a country named Iceland, there's a whole lot of green? Whereas in Greenland, not having visited yet myself, there seems to be nothing but ice (80% of it, to be exact)? Time for that part in the show where we talk about rumors and hearsay! Allegedly, Viking settlers named their newfound home, Iceland, in order to discourage over-settlement. Logic follows that those seeking fortune in a new land would not line up to board a boat to an Iceland. Unless you're a white walker... How about (allegedly) being pursued by vicious enemies, Vikings claimed to be from an Iceland... steering those captors to the land actually covered in ice, just a stone's throw away: our present day, Greenland. Picture this: the clever Vikings drinking their ale, toasting Odin, and watching as the foolish ships met their doom on Greenland's shores. Both of those are lies. For one, you can't see Greenland from Iceland... that was just a gratuitous embellishment. Secondly, the actual bait & switch was used by Erik the Red, who, being banished from Iceland after killing three people, sailed west & discovered what we now call Greenland...

Anyone ever have the notion that much of our oral history is in actuality a billion years long telephone game, that is leaving us with more hyperbole than we can and want to comprehend?

Damage to your checkbook: Absolutely zero. 

STEP 6: Swim in Iceland's oldest pool.

This is the reason I am truly besotted with Iceland. These places in the world are what makes traveling worthwhile. Call it what you want, but I will never cease to be enchanted by swimming in Seljavallalaug: Iceland's oldest pool. 

When I first visited Iceland and Seljavallalaug in 2015, there was a total of four of us in the pool, you had to wade across that cute stream pictured above, and there was nothing but a gravel road to park on. The cat is definitely out of the bag about this sweet spot, so I suggest going at a time of day that people are less inclined to be awake or passing by. Luckily, at points during the summer, there are only a few hours of "darkness," so making an exceedingly early or late arrival to the pool is ideal and doable! Nestled in the valley below the formidable Eyjafjallajökull, the pool was built in 1923 so the locals would have a place to learn to swim. Bring a towel, your birthday (swim) suit and suitable shoes for a brief hike. 

To get here: Traveling EAST from Reykjavik, on Route 1 turn left onto 242 (Raufarfell), which is just past the Eyjafjallajökull Erupts! Exhibit. 242 turns into Seljavellir Road... continue straight until the road forks, take the right fork to the Seljavallalaug parking area. Once out of your car, follow the path into the valley to find the pool! It's about a 10-15 minute hike from the parking area.

Damage to your net worth: Only what you'd like to donate. The pool is kept by a group of volunteers who come in every month to tidy up, and donations from visitors in the event that deeper restoration is needed.

June 2015 // photo by @kaycasanova.

STEP 7: Eat dinner at Gamla fjósíð!

photo courtesy of Gamla fjósíð's TripAdvisor.

Cozy, warm, and exceedingly hearty food for after a long day of exploration. Feels like you're eating in your grandmother's house... with the dishware to prove it (think excessive floral patterns). Nevertheless, the food is delicious and the staff is kind. I recommend the volcano soup... it warmed the cockles of my heart. 

Right of off Route 1, you'll actually pass Gamla fjósíð on your way to the Seljavallalaug pool. Stop off to steel yourself for the drive back to Reykjavik or to adventures beyond!

STEP 8: Watch the sun set (maybe) at the Reykjavik marina.

Ever heard the tale of the Midnight Sun? No, it's not a medieval brotherhood of assassins, hell bent on ousting an evil warlord from his throne of tyranny. It's a phenomenon that you can experience in Iceland and other countries that lie within or near the Arctic Circle during their summer months—specifically on the summer solstice (June 21st). Literally, the sun is out at midnight. How?! The north and south poles are exposed to the sun in a very different way than the rest of the world: they only get a sunrise and sunset ONCE a year, simply because the earth is tilted on it's axis by twenty-three degrees. It's truly a sight to behold... watching the sun skirt the horizon to simply rise again. Check out this website for more information on sunrise and sunsets in Iceland, for a more specific look at how much sunlight you can expect during your visit, and if you can hunt the midnight sun...

Now that I have successfully guided you there and back again to Reykjavik... where you go from there is entirely up to you. Stay the night, stay the week, stay forever! 

A favorite author of mine once said, in a favorite book of mine that I've never mentioned here, "the road goes ever, ever on..." so get out there and start exploring! There's no wrong place, or way, to begin. As always, any questions, comments, smart remarks or if you want advice about planning your next adventure... get in touch here.

Seljalandsfoss // photo by @laurenbritt__

DISCLAIMER: all opinions, misgivings, media and encouragements relayed here are mine unless otherwise noted. In other words, I urge you, beg you, and implore you to get out there and see the world through your own eyes.